How Do I Know Which Emulsifying Waxes Are Effective?

Emulsifying waxes are a family of chemical substances derived from fatty acids. There are a variety of different compositions that include this ingredient, although the most common types are beeswax and liquid paraffin. Beeswax is formed by cracking down the honey within the beeswax blocks. Liquid paraffin is derived from petroleum through a process that involves heating. Both of these types of emulsifying waxes are commonly used as beauty products, however.

The FDA requires that emulsifying waxes sold as lotions and creams be marked with the appropriate industry standard names. The most commonly used industry standard name for these items is generally followed by the initials NF. For example, a product called "Aqua", would most likely have the letters N, A, G, J, and K. (Here, "Aqua" is an informal word, and may stand for anything ranging from water or an edible to a lubricant.) It is important to keep in mind that some cosmetics companies may label their products with different letters on the same label, but that the order of the letters does not matter.

Beeswax is typically a vegetable oil emulsifying wax, as it contains the necessary fatty acid to effectively emulsify other ingredients. It is commonly used as an ingredient for lotions and creams, because it has a natural fragrance and provides excellent skin nourishment. The vegetable oil is melted and added to vegetable or fruit emulsifiers, and then the mixture is left to emulsify as a finished product.

Fatty acids are also used for emulsifying waxes, and the most commonly used fatty acid is the cetearyl alcohol. It is easy to recognize because it is a clear liquid, and it is usually sold in its unsweetened form. It is the fatty alcohols that make emulsifying creams and lotions turn out smoother and more even. This alcohol is sometimes added to beauty products, but some individuals are allergic to it, so a physician must be consulted before use.

The best emulsifying waxes are derived from plants, and these include alphahydroxystearic acid or AHAs from safflower, tea tree, and jojoba. These plant fats are made into a cream that can replace the moisture and oils that are removed during soap making processes. Although many manufacturers choose to substitute paraffin wax for the plant fats, it is an expensive ingredient, and may be harmful if used in concentrations greater than what is necessary.

Emulsifying waxes have been used for thousands of years, and the manufacturers know that they work. Therefore, they do not recommend their use in cosmetics unless the individual has an allergy or skin sensitivity that cannot be remedied by the more common ingredients in cosmetic products. Those with very sensitive skin should use emulsifying waxes on a very short term only, such as a trial period, and only with the advice of a doctor. When used on a regular basis, emulsifying waxes can be an effective method of cleansing, moisturizing, and soften the skin for a long time.